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Some recent food articles from the New York Times

21 November 2006 RS No Comment

Eric Asimov’s reviews of Midwestern wine.

Article about the Iowa wine industry.

Article on locally-grown produce.

Foraging for mushrooms in France.

The article on mushroom hunting in France shows that mushrooms can be hunted without any danger really of depleting their supply. The French have been hunting mushrooms for thousands of years and they haven’t run out. Kane County should consider this and clarify what their position is on the collection of mushrooms, because mushroom hunters don’t deserve to be harassed by goody two-shoes.

Afterall, one of the benefits of living on the urban/rural edge is the proximity to local food sources. I’d like to see a farmer’s market that resembles something you’d find in provincial France. Why can’t I go to a farmers market in the fall and get leaf fat from a freshly slaughtered hog, or a brace of lapin, a rooster for a coq au vin, locally-made artisanal cheeses, or an undressed pheasant (from McGraw, of course) suitable for hanging? I can keep dreaming, I suppose…

I was disappointed that the articles on Midwestern wine failed to mention two things: First, that Missouri used to produce America’s best red wine, Missouri Norton, which won a gold medal at the 1873 Vienna World Exhibition. Secondly, the special place that Wisconsin holds in the history of American viticulture. Agoston Haraszthy, the father of California viticulture, first planted vines in Wisconsin before moving West. That Wisconsin site is now part of the Wollersheim Winery, which despite it’s great record at producing distinctive Midwestern wines, failed to get a mention in the New York Times articles.

Vineyards and wineries are something that should be investigated in this region. I recall an article about efforts to plant vines in McHenry County, and I was pleased to see vineyards planted on the route to Dekalb. I think there are a few vineyards around–Fox Valley Winery or whatever, but when I contacted the UIUC extension in St. Charles for information about studies that have been done in the area, they ignored my request for information. Specifically what I was wondering about was whether Marechal Foch would grow in this region. That’s what Wollersheim is having great success with. Sometimes, I look at these gravelley kames, and I say to myself, vines MUST grow on this! Of course, the main problem is the summer heat (and the cold winters…). Actually the biggest problem is that the land is too valuable, which means it’ll be used for residential development. Agriculture in general will need to keep moving out further and further west. However, Napa showed that grape vines could maximize the value of land, making it too precious to build on. So where does that leave us? Oh no, I’m rambling like an unkempt vine…

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